Have you ever wondered where the concept of sun protection came from? If so, this article is for you. We look at the inception of sunscreen and key developments in formulations to protect the skin and prevent sunburn.
The Inception of Sunscreen
Swiss chemistry student Franz Greiter developed the vision for the first sunscreen in the 1930s when trying to find a product to protect him on mountaineering trips. He discovered that if he mixed zinc oxide with petrolatum and slathered it on his face, his skin could resist the harsh alpine glare. His discovery eventually became Piz Buin, a brand that’s still around today.
Around the same time, Eugene Schueler, founder of L’Oréal developed a tanning oil with UV filtering (similar to the olive oil used by the ancient Greeks). The active ingredient, benzyl salicylate, appeared to stop damage to the skin.
However, it wasn’t until the 1970s and 1980s that awareness of the harmful effects of UV radiation began to grow. It was only then that researchers started to associate it with skin cancer and the media reported on it.
Key Developments in Sunscreen Formulations
Interestingly, sunscreen development didn’t progress linearly. Instead, researchers working in private and public labs discovered competing formulations, often simultaneously.
Chemical vs Physical Formulations
Franz Greiter’s zinc oxide-based creation was arguably the first physical (or mineral) formulation on the market. It was a true “sunblock;” the zinc oxide it contained prevented UV light from reaching the skin.
By contrast, Eugene Schueler’s formulation, Ambre Solaire, used chemical means to block UV. Formulations contained benzyl salicylate molecules that could absorb ultraviolet energy, preventing sun rays from interacting with the skin.
Broad Spectrum
Broad spectrum formulas arrived during the 1980s as researchers discovered that UVA was also harmful and could cause skin cancer. (Most early products only targeted UVB). These products used more advanced sun-blocking ingredients that could absorb energy from a wider wavelength spectrum.
SPF Ratings
Greiter invented the SPF scale in 1962. His original Gletscher Crème had an SPF rating of 2.
During the 1980s, many countries, including Australia, began accepting SPF as the “ratio of UV energy needed to produce a minimal erythemal dose on protected to unprotected skin.” Soon after, the standard became the global norm.
Water Resistant Formulas
The American Medical Association Council of Pharmacy and Chemistry started looking for waterproof sunscreens for the Army Air Force during WWII to protect the skin of stranded men on rafts in the ocean. In 1942, the team discovered the efficacy of dark red veterinary petrolatum. It was waterproof and partially effective at blocking UV. Later in 1967, formulators at top cosmetics brands began experimenting with more advanced waterproofing chemicals to cater to the growing summer vacation market.
How Black Girl Sunscreen Revolutionized the Sunscreen Industry
However, that wasn’t the end of the story. There was still the issue of skin type. Conventional sunscreens left white streaks on dark skin, which was a problem. Therefore, Shontay Lundy, creator of Black Girl Sunscreen, began formulating sunscreen for pigmented skin types in 2016. Her product absorbed into the skin completely and didn’t leave any white residue behind – a look many people with darker skin tones wanted to avoid – while bolstering the skin’s defenses with proper UV protection. Since her brand’s inception, Lundy has received over $1 million in private funding.
